Kuvauen is one of my favourite walks on Hvaler. I’ve been there in all seasons, and I always find something of interest, whether it’s bog cotton dancing in the wind in early spring, sailing boats on the shimmering sea in summer, or a storm brewing on the horizon in winter. The ever-changing landscapes fascinates me, and the views of the Oslofjord from the top of the rocky peninsula are just breathtaking. And while there can be quite a few people there on a hot summer day, in winter the place is all but deserted. Imagine – a bit of Hvaler all to yourself!

How to get there: Just past the Esso station on Vesterøy, take it right direction Hauge first, and then follow signs for Papperhavn. After reaching a little inlet on your right, and driven around it, you’ll see a large car park on your left. This is your starting point.

Follow the signs from the car park. The path goes through a wood before reaching the sea at Guttormsvauen. There is a little sandy beach here (ideal for kids in summer), toilets and a picnic table. From here make for the rocks to your right. Once on the rocks just head south (it’s easier to find your way if you stay high up on the rocks than if you try to get too close to the shore) and you’ll get to the tip of the peninsula. The views from here are absolutely stunning.

Then retrace your steps and head north following the coastline to your left. You’ll see the Søster islands in the distance. The wind can be quite strong here, which explains why the few trees that grow here are so bent – some of them seem to grow almost horizontally. After a while you’ll see the fishermen’s cabins at Kuvauen ahead of you, an idyllic spot that’s inspired many a local painter. Be careful as you reach the cabins, as there is no path to speak of, and finding a way down is not always easy. From Kuvauen a path leads back up to the Papperhavn road. Take it right when you get to the road – the car park is about 500m to the right. Allow 2.5 hours.