Posts Tagged Hvaler

Shopping in the archipelago

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På låven, Hvaler

Hvaler is not reknown for its shopping, but there is one place worth checking out if you’re after original clothes and gifts – På låven on the island of Vesterøy, the first island you come to after crossing the bridge over Puttesund. Ideally located in a restored barn (hence the name), this charming shop has a great selection of clothes and footwear for both children and women, as well as gifts big and small, and a range of home decoration items in romantic, rustic style. Don’t be all that surprised if you encounter a hen roaming freely in one of the rooms while you browse, they belong to the nextdoor neighbour, and in common with locals and tourists alike, they seem to enjoy stopping by to have a good look around too.

På låven, open Tues-Sat 11am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm during school holidays, after that weekends only until Christmas. Hauge, Vesterøy (take it right at the Esso station and follow signs for Hauge. You’ll see the shop on your right at the crossing for Papper about 3km on). Tel: 93 00 06 09, http://paalaaven.blogspot.com (Norwegian only)

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The best raw ingredients

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Hvaler prawns

Did you know that Hvaler was famous for its prawns? Many argue they indeed are the best in Norway. The prawns are cooked on board the boats before they return to shore, in big pans of seawater to which salt has been added – this is what gives them their distinctive taste.

You can drive to Utgårdskilen and buy them straight from the fishermen when they return from their day at sea. At Utgårdskilen you’ll find Fjordfisk’s wharehouse and shop, which receive the largest delivery of fish and shellfish in Eastern Norway. 400 tons of the prawns brought in every year are sold ready-to-eat as fresh Hvaler prawns, while a further 600 tons are delivered to the industry for processing (freezing mainly).

Fishing has always been a mainstay of Hvaler’s economy, be it cod, herring, makrell, lobster or oyster. Around 1900 the first attempts to fish prawns with trawlers were carried out in the Oslofjord, and by 1914 all the fishermen in Utgårdskilen on Hvaler used this method. Business was good, and Hvaler prawns were even exported, tinned, to Germany.

The day started early for prawn fishermen, typically 1am or 2am, and it was not unusual for them to be out at sea until 5pm-6pm. The price of prawns varied from place to place, and year to year, but in 1934 the average price per kilo was 62 øre! Today fishermen on Hvaler still work long hours (particularly when the catch is good!), but the price of fresh prawns has gone up somehow – around 150Kr per kilo. Frozen prawns are much cheaper (no doubt because they are easier to handle), and sell for as little as 30Kr a kilo when on special offer – although 60-70Kr is more common.

Try fresh Hvaler prawns in one of Skjærhalden’s restaurants (Første Reis on the harbour serves them with aioli and its own special shellfish sauce), or eat them au naturel, like most Norwegians do, on white bread and butter, with just a dash of lemon juice. Great for a summer dinner with friends, or why not, a posh picnic by the sea – perfect with a glass of chilled pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc.

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The Oslofjord seen from Kirkeøy

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Storesand, Hvaler (Beach)

On the island of Kirkeøy on Hvaler, this is Østfold’s longest, and arguably best, sand beach. Storesand, which is quite sheltered, has a cafe (open in summer only), and there is also a little campsite nearby at Døvika (tents only). Please note that motorised vehicles are not permitted on the beach. It’s a popular place in summer, particularly with families, and the beach can get a bit crowded at weekends. There is a big car park nearby if you’re coming by car (the first three hours are free, but you must take a ticket at the machine and display it behind your windscreen), otherwise bus no.365 from Fredrikstad runs several times daily to Skjærhalden, and there is a stop for the beach.

How to get here: From Fredrikstad follow Rv 108 all the way to Kirkeøy (the island after the tunnel) until you get to a big crossroad. You’ll see the car park on your right here. Then it’s only a short walk (about 500m) to the beach on a small dust road.

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Østfold in Pictures: Viker, Hvaler

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Where to stay in Hvaler

Looking for a hotel, or somewhere to stay in Hvaler? Here are some of the options in the archipelago:

- Sandbrekke Gjestegård: Small guesthouse in idyllic rural setting. Sandbrekke is a member of Regional Matkultur Østfold, an organisation promoting regional food and local producers. Skjærhalden, Kirkeøy. Tel: 69 37 94 27, www.sandbrekke.no

- Rorbuene Hvaler: Complex of brand new rorbu-style apartment right by the marina in Skjærhalden, Kirkeøy. Various sizes available. Tel: 69 37 83 00, www.rorbuen-hvaler.no/Rorbuer.html (Norwegian only)

- Garnberget: 11 rorbu-style apartments, right by the small fishing harbour in Utgårdskilen, Vesterøy. Each unit sleeps up to 5 people. Tel: 92 25 27 99, www.garnberget.no (Norwegian only)

- Hvaler Gjestgiveri: 15 double rooms (and a big dining room) in a white wooden building surrounded by extensive grounds near Arekilen on Kirkeøy. Tel: 69 37 82 00, http://hvaler-gjestgiveri.no (Norwegian only)

- Havtunet Hvaler AS: Rorbu-style accommodation offering 47 units on the water at Økholmen on Vesterøy. Tel: 69 37 66 99 or 69 37 60 63, www.hvalerbooking.no/no/havtunet-hvaler.html (Norwegian only)

- Hvaler Resort: Luxury apartment complex (minimum 6 people), with spa and restaurant on site. Sandbakken, Skjærhalden, Kirkeøy. Tel: 69 37 90 00, www.hvalerresort.no (Norwegian only)

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The Hvaler International Sculpture Project

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Walking in Øsfold: Rødshue, Hvaler

This is another lovely walk on Hvaler. There is a sculpture park with several works by artists from both Norway and further afield (Italy, Japan and Sweden to be precise) interspersed along the coastline here. The most striking is probably Fortidens Vitner (Witnesses of the Past) by Alessandro Stenico, two grey stone columns (they look like metal from a distance) overlooking the ocean (see photo above). It was the first sculpture to be erected on the site in 2005. A new sculpture is due to be unveiled every summer, giving locals and visitors alike reasons to come back year after year.

Stone industry experienced a boom in Hvaler, as well as in several other parts of Østfold, during the latter part of the 19th century, and the area around Rødshue is a testimony to this, with discarded stone blocks of various sizes still dotting the landscape, and the remnants of quarry activity still visible in many parts. This makes for an interesting landscape to explore. Depending on how much time you’ve got on your hands, and/or how energetic you feel, you can continue on to Grønnebakke to the north, or Ørekroken to the east, both of which offer good swimming opportunities. Just north of the sculptures there is also a big stone cross erected in 1995 to mark 1,000 years of Christianity in Norway.

More info about the Stenkunst Hvaler project (the Hvaler International Sculpture Project) at  www.stenkunsthvaler.no/english.html

How to get there: Coming from Fredrikstad on Rv 108, take the first road to your right once you get to Kirkeøy (after the Hvaler Tunnel). This is a small road that goes past many hytter (summer houses). Keep going straight for about 800m until you get to a small car park. There is no P sign but you can’t drive further on anyway, so you’ll know you’ve reached your destination. A path leads from the car park to the coast.

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