Posts Tagged Sarpsborg

Recommended take away

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Thinthan Thai Food, Sarpsborg

Opened in 2008, and run by a group of expatriate Thai women, who quite simply serve the best Thai food in Sarpsborg, if not the whole of Østfold. The unassuming roadside takeaway offers an extensive selection of dishes (some 40 main courses feature on the menu), including classics such as green curry or pad thai, among many others. All dishes use the freshest ingredients, and are prepared on the premises while you wait. Authentic food, friendly service and affordable prices. Expect to pay around 100Kr for a substantial main course, including rice.

Hafslundsgate 26. Tel: 69 14 14 53, www.thai-mat.no (Norwegian only). Open Mon-Thur 10am-9pm, Fri 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun noon-10pm.

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The Sarpsfossen ca. 1900

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Borregård and the big landslide of 1702

Another manor with ties to the Glomma River, and not least the Sarpsfossen, Sarpsborg waterfall. Borregård, just like Hafslund, enjoyed a great location on the bank of Norway’s longest river. As it turned out, the manor’s great location was also to play a key role in its demise. In 1702, Borregård belonged to the Dane Jens Wernersen. One night in February 1702, as his pregnant wife went into labour, he summoned the midwife. When the woman came to the house, she noticed big cracks in the ground just outside the main entrance. Understanding that a landslide was imminent, she raised the alarm. Everybody came out of the main building just before it disappeared into the waterfall, but not all the servants made it: 15 of them were killed as they were trying to rescue the cattle in the barn. Almost 200 animals perished with them. The Maria Church, which had been built by St Olav himself back in the 11th century, had gone too. The landslide was the biggest natural catastrophe in Østfold’s history. After that tragic night, the manor was rebuilt in nearby Kulås, where it stands to this day.

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Blocks of rock become works of art

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Johansen’s Stone Quarry, Skjeberg

Ever been to a stone quarry? No, neither had I. Until, urged by a local acquaintance, I visited Johansens Monumenthuggeri in Skjeberg near Sarpsborg last month. Turned out to be very interesting, as it happens. This quarry, the largest of its kind in Norway, produces gravestones, cobble stones and the like, but what makes it really special is that it also attracts its fair share of artists.

Some 80-90 of them come to work here every year, including some big names like Kristian Blystad, one of Norway’s most famous contemporary sculptors. Even Morten Harket and Magne Furuholmen, of a-ha fame, both of whom are keen amateur sculptors, have spent some time here. Really. The quarry even has its own artist in residence, Kazuhiro Nomura, a Japanese sculptor from Nagoya, who has been coming to Norway for several years now. He spends his summers in his outdoor studio at Johansen’s, making good use of the natural light and a vast array of very specialised tools the quarry puts at his disposal.

The quarry imports stones from all over the world, as well as using local stones such as Iddefjord granite or Larvik stone (Larvikitt). The blocks of white Italian marble that were used for the new Opera House in Oslo were cut here. The quarry, now in the hands of the fifth generation of Johansens, handles a lot of similar big projects.

Walking around all these statues in the making is a surreal experience. Behind the workshop is a big open space where discarded artworks await their fate amid big blocks of rock and piles of gravel. Last summer they held a light and sound show here. I can imagine the quarry walls, cut straight in the mountain side, making quite a special background for it. I’ll most certainly check it out next year.

Skjebergveien 206, Klavestadhaugen (offices). Tel: 69 16 36 33, www.johansenmonument.no. Visits by appointment only.

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Østfold in Pictures: Sølvstufoss

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Top 5: Walks in the Sarpsborg area

- Sølvstufoss: You can reach the waterfall from the south or from the north (more scenic). The view from the wooden bridge over the Ågårdselva is quite impressive, with the river caught in between steep canyon-like rock walls. In season you can watch the salmon making their way upriver and going through the salmon stairs by the fall. The area attracts many anglers, as the Ågårdselva is one of only a few salmon rivers in Østfold.

- Sarpsborgmarka: A popular recreational area within easy reach of Sarpsborg town centre, offering a number of paths to choose from. The marked trail to Holen, which goes via the prettily named Appelsintoppen, is a good option, and the loop will take you through varied terrain. Follow the blue marks from the car park.

- Krysstjern: One of my favourite walks in this area, departing from a little car park along Rokkeveien, about 6km from the crossing with Skjebergveien. It’s not marked, and there is a little bit of climbing and bog crossing on the way up to the lake, but it’s well worth the effort, as the area is beautiful. A small path goes round the lake.

- Harehjellhytta: A 15 minute-drive from Sarpsborg centre, this area is better known for its ski slope (one of only two in the county) and its cross-country skiing tracks. But outside wintertime, it’s also popular with families going for a walk at weekends, as there are a few tracks to choose from, and they are well marked.

- Børtevann: Børtevann is a popular area for kayaking and canoeing, but you can also go around the lake on foot. Follow the dirt road behind the little cafeteria. The first half of the walk takes you through agricultural landscape with a good view of the lake, while the second part goes through the forest.

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Østfold in Pictures: Skjeberg Church

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Skjeberg Church

One of the largest Medieval churches in Østfold, dating back to the late 12th century, Skjeberg Church is also arguably one of the prettiest. Built in stone, in the Roman style, it boasts a gothic portal, as well as a runic inscription on one of the walls. The baptismal font in the church, made of a special kind of stone called ‘kleberstein’ in Norwegian, is one of the finest in the country. It was carved by an English craftsman in the first half of the 1100s. The font, which is square, stands on five pillars. It is big, as in the Middle Ages infants had to be totally immersed in water during the christening ceremony. Images of Christ, the four evangelists and the apostles adorn the bas-reliefs on the sides of the font. The church is surrounded by a colourful graveyard overlooking the surrounding fields.

How to get there: From Sarpsborg, follow Rv118 (Skjebergveien) south towards Skjeberg Stasjon. You’ll see the church on your right 2km before you reach the railway crossing.

For info on other Østfold churches see www.elusivemoose.eu/2009/12/top-5-churches-in-østfold/

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