Posts Tagged Shopping

Shopping in the archipelago

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På låven, Hvaler

Hvaler is not reknown for its shopping, but there is one place worth checking out if you’re after original clothes and gifts – På låven on the island of Vesterøy, the first island you come to after crossing the bridge over Puttesund. Ideally located in a restored barn (hence the name), this charming shop has a great selection of clothes and footwear for both children and women, as well as gifts big and small, and a range of home decoration items in romantic, rustic style. Don’t be all that surprised if you encounter a hen roaming freely in one of the rooms while you browse, they belong to the nextdoor neighbour, and in common with locals and tourists alike, they seem to enjoy stopping by to have a good look around too.

På låven, open Tues-Sat 11am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm during school holidays, after that weekends only until Christmas. Hauge, Vesterøy (take it right at the Esso station and follow signs for Hauge. You’ll see the shop on your right at the crossing for Papper about 3km on). Tel: 93 00 06 09, http://paalaaven.blogspot.com (Norwegian only)

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The best raw ingredients

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Hvaler prawns

Did you know that Hvaler was famous for its prawns? Many argue they indeed are the best in Norway. The prawns are cooked on board the boats before they return to shore, in big pans of seawater to which salt has been added – this is what gives them their distinctive taste.

You can drive to Utgårdskilen and buy them straight from the fishermen when they return from their day at sea. At Utgårdskilen you’ll find Fjordfisk’s wharehouse and shop, which receive the largest delivery of fish and shellfish in Eastern Norway. 400 tons of the prawns brought in every year are sold ready-to-eat as fresh Hvaler prawns, while a further 600 tons are delivered to the industry for processing (freezing mainly).

Fishing has always been a mainstay of Hvaler’s economy, be it cod, herring, makrell, lobster or oyster. Around 1900 the first attempts to fish prawns with trawlers were carried out in the Oslofjord, and by 1914 all the fishermen in Utgårdskilen on Hvaler used this method. Business was good, and Hvaler prawns were even exported, tinned, to Germany.

The day started early for prawn fishermen, typically 1am or 2am, and it was not unusual for them to be out at sea until 5pm-6pm. The price of prawns varied from place to place, and year to year, but in 1934 the average price per kilo was 62 øre! Today fishermen on Hvaler still work long hours (particularly when the catch is good!), but the price of fresh prawns has gone up somehow – around 150Kr per kilo. Frozen prawns are much cheaper (no doubt because they are easier to handle), and sell for as little as 30Kr a kilo when on special offer – although 60-70Kr is more common.

Try fresh Hvaler prawns in one of Skjærhalden’s restaurants (Første Reis on the harbour serves them with aioli and its own special shellfish sauce), or eat them au naturel, like most Norwegians do, on white bread and butter, with just a dash of lemon juice. Great for a summer dinner with friends, or why not, a posh picnic by the sea – perfect with a glass of chilled pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc.

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Art and history in the Old Town

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Focus on Gamlebyen: Bastion 5

Bastion 5 in Gamlebyen is a complex run by local artists and craftsmen, consisting of a cafe, exhibition galleries and workshops. The building furthest from the river was originally a bakery, while Cafe Magenta is where Gamlebyen’s slaves were kept when they were not working in the fields outside the city. The Provianthus or storehouse, the largest of the three buildings, is also Gamlebyen’s oldest. The wall facing the river is an impressive 4m-thick in places. The building was completed in 1691, and today houses the main exhibition space. Here you will find pottery, sculpture, jewellery, paintings, and other arts and crafts for sale. A great place to browse, and maybe find an unusual souvenir to take home.

Bastion 5 is open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat-Sun noon-4pm. Toldbodgaten, Gamlebyen. Tel: 98 63 91 49, www.bastion5.com

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Cool clothes from Ugly Children

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Norwegian fashion labels for kids

It’s not fair! Kids’ clothes are so much fun, why don’t they make them in adult sizes? Anyway, here are some seriously cool Norwegian fashion labels for children, for those of you who take their fashion seriously (and don’t mind spending a small fortune to spoil the kids). Yes yes, of course they’re worth it :-)

- Dundelina: A unique, inspired concept that combines fashion and storytelling with beautiful children’s clothes, accessories and books that interact with each other. Girls will feel like real fairytale princesses in those clothes… well, I know I would! www.dundelina.com (English)

- Ugly Children’s Clothing: Tongue-in-cheek clothes for newborns and toddlers. The name might not ring a bell, but you will recognise some of the designs (like the popular Norwegian lice sweater body). Their new ugly milk collection is also fun. www.uglycc.com (English)

- Lille Lam (Little Lamb): Specialises in 100% merino wool clothes in pastel colours for boys and girls aged 0-10 years. Great for kids who itch in other materials. www.lillelam.no (Norwegian only)

- Lille Barn: Classic childrenswear with a Scandinavian feel. For children aged 0-6 years. Available in the UK too. www.lillebarn.com (English web page under development)

- My Cinnamon Girl: A relative newcomer on the scene, My Cinnamon Girl offers clothes in delicate colours, beautiful fabrics for both boys and girls, plus matching clothes for mums and daughters. http://mycinnamongirl.com (English)

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Beautiful and practical

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The turkopp

I was given one of those for Christmas last year, and I love it. It’s both beautiful and practical, in a very Scandinavian kind of way. Cups vary in size (8-9cm in diameter and 5-6cm high is about the norm), but all are very light – they weigh around 100g. Made of oiled wood, usually birch, the cups are cut out from one single piece, and can easily be washed with a bit of water (no detergent). They originally came from Lapland, where they are known as kuksa, although most Norwegians refer to them as turkopp (tour cup) or trekopp (wooden cup). Some have two, instead of one (or no), finger holes, and/or a leather string so that they can be tied onto a rucksack. Cheap they ain’t – expect to pay up to 200Kr in a specialist shop, although I’ve seen some on sale on the internet for less than half that price. So shop around.

See www.eagleproducts.no/hXGXzohdLG4h.16.idium (Norwegian only) to see a sample of cups – their articles are available in many sports shops.

Or (why not indeed if you have a bit of time on your hands) – make your own!… Follow the step-by-step instructions at www.bushcraft.ridgeonnet.com/Kuksa%20tutorial.htm


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